I like the speed and simplicity of the Fisher Delta but do feel the odd corner was cut with the kit supplied by RepRapPro.
After some frustration and wasted time with the auto leveling playing up (where the bed switches were open circuit in one corner or the other) I found that the three springs underneath the Print bed were so weak as to have bent and distorted. A quick fix was to replace them, however sourcing these proved tricky until I chanced on a Hilka 200 piece assortment. Quite what to do with the remaining 197 springs will become apparent in time I’m sure.
The original springs
The new springs
The power supply for the Fisher Delta 3D printer is made using a 19V power brick, which is okay except that the mains switch is too far away to kill the power quickly in an emergency – yes one of the endstop cables popped off and the printer tried to head crash on homing.
As I result we made the following modifications to add a switch into the low voltage supply:-
- Drill a mounting hole in the acrylic side panel for a small mains rated power switch and pop it in place.
- Cut the +ve internal 19v cable.
- Using automotive crimp connectors add an extra length of wire to reach the switch. This connect the power supply 19v+ from the socket to the switch.
- Lastly add another short piece of cable to connect from the other terminal of the switch to the cut section end of original cable going to the Duet board of the Fisher.
This means its easy to power off the Printer using a switch instead of yanking the power cable out or lunging for the mains switch round the back.
This modification won’t of course control the mains power going into the power supply brick of the printer as this is unaffected by the change.
Fisher Delta 3D printer
Power switch Mod
Power switch mod 19v cabling run